![]() ![]() I drew a model of the panel layout to scale. To determine the rod lengths needed, I created this picture guide for myself (above). I would recommend a more case by case basis for different furniture limitations. Additionally, my design allowed for the panel to be very slim (~3/4" in height including the plywood, sprocket, and Plexiglas).įor the design I ultimately decided on, I was able to drill holes into the furniture to support the mechanism weight. I ultimately decided a mechanical mechanism in the form of a sprocket with 4 rods which would simultaneously translate upon sprocket rotation as I believed this would be more reliable for long term usage. Also, the vertical space in my compartment was very limited, so if I included an Arduino or catches, I would have not room to store my stuff. I even considered the catch idea in combination with an arduino knock response to release the catches, but I wanted the safe to be accessible even if the power was out. I also considered having the panel lock in place by pushing it into some kind of door catch, but I decided this would be to complicated as I would need to find a way to keep the panel parallel to the ground and unclip multiple catches. I did consider using magnets to lock the compartment panel into place, but I was concerned that I would not be able to manipulate the magnets easily as I would have to come at them at a bad angle. plywood board (the thinner the better, used only for appearance) Īs with any project, I went through several iterations and ran into many problems when designing the compartment.I want to create this Instructable as a guide for your own furniture, based on the steps I took to make it work in my furniture. The materials needed for the project will vary slightly depending on the desk or furniture. ![]() Previously, I had been using an Altoids container which was magnetically attached to the bottom surface, but I wanted something that could provide more room. So, I decided to try to create a panel that would float in one of the empty spaces below my desk. I did not have enough room for false bottoms in the drawers as they are very shallow, and I felt that a false back would be too obvious. I sometimes forget to charge things, so any electronically triggered mechanisms were a no go, and the last thing I wanted was to have to damage my compartment to get it open. So, as my first Instructable I've decided to share my the design of my secret compartment.įirst of all, as part of my design, I decided that the compartment should be strictly mechanical. It traditionally rests on bun feet, often with castors to make it portable from room to room.I had been browsing Instructables in the past for ways to make secret compartments, but I wanted to make my own secret compartment that was unique. Originally a simple chest of drawers with a swivel top, it grew increasingly ornate, with pilasters or cabriole legs in front. However, the Davenport became popular on dry land in the 19th century, in homes throughout England and the United States. They are sometimes referenced, in fact, as a ship captain's desk. Because of this military connection, and the desk's compact size and multiple compartments, furniture historians theorize the piece was originally intended to be used on a ship, or on military campaigns. Its name derives from the client it was made for, a Captain Davenport. The Davenport dates from the 1790s, developed by a British furniture-making firm named Gillows (also known as Gillow & Co.). Many also have small front drawers, cubbyholes, hidden compartments released by a knob in one of the drawers, or pop-up galleries. Some have one side of working drawers and one side of faux drawers. The Davenport is a type of small case desk, with a slanted and/or pull-out top and a row of drawers down one or both sides. ![]()
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